Hydroalcoholic extract of camellia japonica and cosmetic compositions comprising it

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-2022313596-A1
Application number	US-202217705643-A
Country	US
Kind code	A1
Filing date	Mar 28, 2022
Priority date	Mar 29, 2021
Publication date	Oct 6, 2022
Grant date	—

Abstract

A Camellia extract obtained by extracting by ultrasound a powder of Camellia japonica flowers, the powder being impregnated with a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances, with a hydroalcoholic solvent, and a cosmetic composition including such an extract having in particular a soothing effect for the skin. Also, a non-therapeutic use thereof for soothing the skin.

First claim

1 . A process for preparing a hydroalcoholic extract of Camellia japonica flowers, comprising the following steps:
i. impregnation of a powder of Camellia flowers with a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances at a temperature above the melting temperature of said fatty substance and under an atmosphere free or essentially free of oxygen, preferably an oil, then separation to obtain an oily extract of Camellia flowers and a residual powder of the flowers thus extracted, ii. impregnation of the residual powder of flowers that is obtained in step i., by means of an extraction solvent based on a mixture of alcohol and water under an atmosphere free or essentially free of oxygen, iii. extraction of said residual powder of flowers by ultrasound and under an atmosphere free or essentially free of oxygen, iv. maceration of said powder in the extraction solvent and under an atmosphere free or essentially free of oxygen, v. clarification of the hydroalcoholic extract of Camellia flowers.

2 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein steps i., ii., iii., and iv. are carried out under a nitrogen atmosphere.

3 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the powder of Camellia japonica flowers is in the form of a dispersible product obtained by milling at a temperature between −20 and −80° C.

4 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein step i. is carried out with a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances at a temperature above the melting temperature of said fatty substance or of said mixture and under an atmosphere free or essentially free of oxygen.

5 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the powder of Camellia flowers comes from the variety Camellia japonica alba plena.

6 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty substance or substances used in step i. is a plant oil which is liquid at room temperature, a plant butter having a melting point between 25 and 40° C., or a plant wax having a melting point above 40° C., and preferably the fatty substance(s) is an oil selected among Camellia oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, hazelnut oil, argan oil, muscat rose oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, liquid jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.

7 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the extraction solvent used in step ii. is a mixture of polyol and water, and preferably of propanediol and water.

8 . The process according to claim 7 , wherein the ratio of the volume of alcohol:water of the extraction solvent used in step ii. is between 95/5 and 50/50, preferably between 90/10 and 70/30, and more preferably between 85/15 and 75/25.

9 . The process according to claim 8 , wherein step iii. of ultrasound-assisted extraction is carried out for a duration of between 15 and 60 minutes, preferably between 30 and 40 minutes, at a cavitation frequency of less than 100 kHz, preferably between 20 and 30 kHz.

10 . The process according to claim 9 , wherein the clarification step v. is carried out by filtration, preferably in two stages:
a first centrifugal microfiltration on a filter cloth having a porosity of less than 5 microns and preferably less than or equal to 1 micron, then a second clarifying microfiltration on a filtration plate having a porosity of less than 1 micron and preferably less than or equal to 0.2 micron.

11 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein steps i., ii., iii., and/or iv. are conducted in the absence of light or of any oxidizing radiation such as UV.

12 . A hydroalcoholic extract of Camellia japonica flowers, mainly comprising a mixture of sugars, camellioside A, and camellioside B.

13 . The hydroalcoholic extract according to claim 12 , wherein the sugars and the camelliosides are present in the extract in a mass proportion of approximately 2:1.

14 . The hydroalcoholic extract according to claim 12 , wherein it is obtained by means of a process according to any one of claims 1 to 11 .

15 . The hydroalcoholic extract according to claim 13 , wherein the Camellia flower comes from the variety Camellia japonica alba plena.

16 . A cosmetic composition comprising at least one extract of Camellia japonica flowers according to claim 12 , in a physiologically acceptable medium.

17 . A non-therapeutic cosmetic method of soothing human skin, comprising applying to the human skin in need thereof an effective amount of an extract of Camellia japonica flowers according to claim 12 , as a soothing active ingredient.

Assignees

• Chanel Parfums Beaute

Inventors

• Cocandeau Vincent
• Rossignol-Castera Anne
• Lemoine Noémie

Classifications

• A61K2800/805

  Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95 · CPC title

• A61Q19/00

  Preparations for care of the skin · CPC title

• A61P29/00 Primary

  Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID] · CPC title

• A61K8/9789 Primary

  Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons] · CPC title

• A61K2800/82

  Preparation or application process involves sonication or ultrasonication · CPC title