Gentiopicroside free gentiana extract

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-2018147136-A1
Application number	US-201615575955-A
Country	US
Kind code	A1
Filing date	Jun 2, 2016
Priority date	Jun 4, 2015
Publication date	May 31, 2018
Grant date	—

Abstract

The present invention relates to gentiopicroside free Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida extracts. Furthermore, it relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such gentiopicroside free Gentiana acaulis or Gentiana septemfida extract, as well as mixtures thereof.

First claim

1 . A process for the preparation of a Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida extract which is substantially free of gentiopicroside, said process comprising the steps of
(i) Extracting the aerial parts (flower, leaf, stem) of Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida with a water/organic solvent mixture to obtain, after filtration, an extract comprising gentiopicroside, followed by (ii) Removal of the organic solvent to obtain an aqueous extract, followed by (iii) Hydrolysis of the gentiopicroside in the aqueous extract to gentiopicral.

2 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the extraction in step (i) is performed with a water/ethanol mixture.

3 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrolysis of gentiopicroside to gentiopicral in step (iii) is done with a β-glucosidase, preferably with a β-glucosidase immobilized on an epoxy-activated methacrylic/styrene resin.

4 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrolysis is performed until the concentration of gentiopicroside is less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.01%, most preferably less than 0.001%.

5 . The process according to claim 1 , said process containing a step (iv) consisting in removal of gentiopicral from the aqueous extract obtained in (iii) by extraction.

6 . The process according to claim 5 , wherein the gentiopicral is removed by extraction with an organic solvent, preferably with ethyl acetate.

7 . The process according to claim 1 , wherein a mixture of aerial parts of Gentiana acaulis and Gentiana septemfida is used in a ratio of Gentiana acaulis to Gentiana septemfida between 5/95 mass/mass and 50/50 mass/mass.

8 . The process according to claim 7 , wherein the ratio of Gentiana acaulis to Gentiana septemfida is comprised between 10/90 mass/mass and 30/70 mass/mass.

9 . The process according to claim 7 , wherein the ratio of Gentiana acaulis to Gentiana septemfida is comprised between 15/85 mass/mass and 25/75 mass/mass.

10 . A gentiopicroside free Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida extract obtainable by a process according to claim 1 .

11 . A cosmetic composition comprising a gentiopicroside free Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida extract according to claim 10 .

12 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 11 , wherein the composition comprises between 0.001 and 20 wt-% in dry matter of a Gentiana acaulis and/or Gentiana septemfida extract, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

13 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 11 , wherein the composition further comprises glycerin.

14 . Use of a composition as disclosed in claim 11 for cosmetic application to the skin of a human being.

15 . Use according to claim 14 , wherein the cosmetic application is selected from combatting skin aging characterized in reduction of wrinkles, induction of collagen synthesis, and/or reduction of intracellular reactive oxygen species production.

Assignees

• Dsm Ip Assets Bv

Inventors

• Boissard Christophe
• Imfeld Dominik
• Meisinger Marie-Sophie
• Paul François

Classifications

• A61Q19/04

  for chemically tanning the skin (topical sun or radiation screening or tanning preparations A61Q17/04) · CPC title

• A61K2800/522

  Antioxidants; Radical scavengers · CPC title

• A61Q19/08 Primary

  Anti-ageing preparations · CPC title

• A61K2236/53

  Liquid-solid separation, e.g. centrifugation, sedimentation or crystallization · CPC title

• A61K2800/782

  Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists · CPC title