Process for preparing a Lawsonia inermis extract

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-11987708-B2
Application number	US-202017608325-A
Country	US
Kind code	B2
Filing date	Jun 12, 2020
Priority date	Jun 12, 2019
Publication date	May 21, 2024
Grant date	May 21, 2024

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a process for preparing a Lawsonia inermis extract which is rich in Lawsone. It also relates to the extract which may be obtained by said process and to a composition comprising thereof. The disclosure also relates to a method for dying fibers, in particular keratin fibers.

First claim

The invention claimed is:

1. Process for preparing a lawsone-rich extract which comprises the steps of:
a) macerating the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis in water, at a pH ranging from 4 to 8 in order for the glycosylated lawsone derivatives initially present in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis to be partially or totally hydrolyzed enzymatically, to provide an aqueous solution containing lawsone;
b) adding an organic solvent to the solution obtained in step a), said organic solvent being selected from C 4 -C 12 linear, or branched, alcohols to provide an aqueous phase and an organic phase;
c) collecting the organic phase obtained from step b); and
d) concentrating the organic phase collected in step c) to obtain a lawsone-rich extract.

2. The process according to claim 1 wherein step (a) is conducted at a temperature ranging from 20° C. to 60° C.

3. The process according to claim 1 wherein step a) is conducted at a pH ranging from 5 to 7.5.

4. The process according to claim 1 wherein it does not include any step of changing the pH of the aqueous solution or the aqueous phase by addition of acid or base.

5. The process according to claim 1 wherein step a) is performed under stirring for 15 min to 2 h.

6. The process according to claim 1 wherein in step a) is performed in a volume of water whose weight is 2 to 15 times greater than the weight of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis subjected to maceration.

7. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic solvent is a biosourced alcohol.

8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic solvent is C 4 -C 8 linear or branched alcohols or any mixtures thereof.

9. The process according to claim 1 wherein the lawsone-rich extract obtained in step d) contains more than 50% of the lawsone initially present in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis , said lawsone being either in its free form or in the form of glycosylated derivatives in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis subjected to maceration.

10. The process according to claim 1 further comprising the step c′) between step c) and d), the step c′ comprising adding a carrier to the organic phase collected in step c) and a step e) of drying the extract after step d) to provide dry lawsone-rich extract.

11. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the lawsone-rich extract obtained in step d) contains from 7 to 60% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract and further comprises luteolin, apigenin and 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone.

12. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the lawsone-rich extract obtained in step d) further comprises coumaric acid and/or glycosylated luteolin.

13. The process according to claim 1 wherein the lawsone-rich extract obtained in step d) do not comprise more than 2% by weight of proteins, peptides or amino acids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

14. The process according to claim 1 wherein the dry lawsone-rich extract obtained in step e) contains from 0.6 to 1.4% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract and further comprises luteolin, apigenin and 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone.

15. The process according to claim 14 wherein the dry lawsone-rich extract obtained in step e) further contains, relative to the total weight of the dry lawsone-rich extract:
from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight of luteolin,
from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of apigenin, and
from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight of 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone.

16. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of n-butanol, sec-butanol, isobutanol and any mixtures thereof.

Assignees

• Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique

Inventors

• Subra Laurent
• Autret Jean-Marie
• Fiorini-Puybaret Christel
• Joulia Philippe

Classifications

• C09B61/00 Primary

  Dyes of natural origin prepared from natural sources {, e.g. vegetable sources} · CPC title

• A61K8/35

  Ketones, e.g. benzophenone · CPC title

• A61K8/498

  having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin · CPC title

• A61K8/922

  of vegetable origin · CPC title

• A61Q5/065

  Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes · CPC title