External element or dial for horology or jewellery made of conductive material

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-11977356-B2
Application number	US-202016816309-A
Country	US
Kind code	B2
Filing date	Mar 12, 2020
Priority date	Mar 14, 2019
Publication date	May 7, 2024
Grant date	May 7, 2024

Abstract

A method for fabricating a timepiece component made of conductive material includes: making a base from conductive material; coating the base with a first layer of sacrificial metal protection material; etching a recessed decoration mechanically or with a laser; coating the first recessed decoration and the remaining part of the first layer with a second metal and/or coloured decorative treatment layer; and removing each first sacrificial metal protection layer by chemical devices, to obtain a blank including a first decoration formed by the remaining part of the second layer.

First claim

The invention claimed is:

1. A method for fabricating a timepiece component made of conductive material, wherein a basic cycle is performed at least once, comprising, in this order, the following steps:
in an initial step, producing a base from a substrate made of conductive material, which is either metal or ceramic or organic or composite, defining an upper layer of said base;
in a first coating operation, coating said base with at least a first layer of a first sacrificial metal protection material;
in a first etching operation, etching a first recessed decoration, to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of said first sacrificial metal protection layer, either mechanically or with an ultrashort pulse laser of the picosecond laser or femtosecond laser type;
in a second coating operation, coating said first recessed decoration and a remaining part of said first sacrificial metal protection layer with at least a second layer of a second metal decorative treatment and/or coloured decorative treatment material, to form a first intermediate compound;
in a first chemical removal operation, removing by chemical means the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protection layer, to obtain a first blank comprising a first decoration formed by a remaining part of said second layer; and
making said timepiece component either directly in the form of said first blank, or by finishing said first blank,
wherein:
either during said first coating operation, or respectively during said second coating operation, said coating is at least partially applied in a dry process or at least partially by electrolytic or electrochemical means, with the superposition of several said first layers, or respectively of several said second layers of different types;

the method further comprises:
after said first chemical removal operation, in a third coating operation, coating said first blank with a third layer comprising a surface layer of said first sacrificial metal protection material or of another sacrificial metal protection material followed by coating the third layer with a fourth layer comprising a surface layer of said first sacrificial metal protection material or of another sacrificial metal protection material;
in a second etching operation, etching a second recessed decoration to a depth at least equal to a thickness of the third and fourth layers;
in a fourth coating operation, coating the second recessed decoration and the fourth layer with a fifth layer of a fifth metal decorative treatment and/or coloured decorative treatment material;
in a second chemical removal operation, removing the third layer, fourth layer and part of the fifth layer to leave a remaining portion of the fifth layer in the second recessed decoration.

2. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said first coating operation, said coating is applied with a first thickness of more than 50 nanometres.

3. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said first coating operation, said base is dry coated with at least one said first sacrificial metal protection layer.

4. The method according to claim 3 , wherein said first dry coating is applied by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

5. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said second coating operation of coating with at least a second metal and/or coloured decorative treatment layer, said coating is applied with a second thickness comprised between 50 nanometres and 1,000 nanometres.

6. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said second coating operation, said base is dry coated with at least said second metal decorative treatment and/or coloured decorative treatment layer.

7. The method according to claim 6 , wherein said second dry coating operation is carried out by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

8. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said operation of etching a said first recessed decoration, said etching is carried out everywhere down to said substrate of said base.

9. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during the first coating operation, said first coating is applied with a first thickness which is greater than or equal to the difference between, on the one hand, a second thickness of a second metal and/or coloured decorative treatment layer to be applied during the step of coating said first recessed decoration and said remaining part of said first sacrificial metal protection layer, and on the other hand, the etch depth in the substrate of said base during said operation of etching a first recessed decoration.

10. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said etching operation, said etching is carried out to form a juxtaposition of deep conical or pyramidal recesses.

11. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said etching operation, said etching is carried out to a depth in said base comprised between 20 nanometres and the total thickness of said base.

12. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said first coating operation, said coating is at least partially applied in a dry process, or completely in a dry process, with the superposition of several said first layers of different types.

13. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, during said second coating operation, said coating is at least partially applied in a dry process, or completely in a dry process, with the superposition of several said second layers of different types.

14. The method according to claim 13 , wherein said superposition of several said second layers is carried out with at least a chromium layer of 50 to 250 nanometres and a gold layer of 50 to 150 nanometres.

15. The method according to claim 13 , wherein said superposition of several said second layers is carried out with at least a chromium layer of about 200 nanometres and a gold layer of about 100 nanometres.

16. The method according to claim 1 , wherein the third coating operation comprises a dry process.

17. The method according to claim 1 , wherein the second etching operation is performed wherein the second recessed decoration is etched, mechanically or with a laser to produce a second intermediate compound.

18. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, after said second chemical removal operation is performed, a second blank is obtained comprising said first decoration formed by the remaining part of said second layer, and a second decoration formed by the remaining part of said fifth layer, and wherein said timepiece component is either made directly in the form of said second blank, or by finishing said second blank.

19. The method according to claim 18 , wherein at least a sixth metal decorative treatment and/or coloured decorative treatment material is chosen, and wherein a sequence combining said third coating operation, said second etching operation, and said second chemical removal operation is reiterated, with the same sacrificial metal protection materials or other similar sacrificial metal protection materials, in order to make at least one other decoration in addition to said first decoration and said second decoration.

20. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, after said third coating operation and before said second chemical removal operation, an intermediate etching operation is performed, during which a third recessed decoration is etched, either mechanically or with a laser.

21. The method according to claim 1 , wherein, before or after an operation of chemically removing a sacrificial metal protection layer, a mechani

Assignees

• Omega Sa

Inventors

• Jeanrenaud Frederic
• Kissling Gregory

Classifications

• G04B45/0076 Primary

  Decoration of the case and of parts thereof, e.g. as a method of manufacture thereof (specially shaped G04B45/0061, G04B45/0069; decoration with inscriptions and pictures G04B45/0084; construction of the hands G04B19/042; decoration by adding extra pieces to the clockwork G04B47/04; colouring by treatment of the surface, e.g. by oxidation C25D) · CPC title

• A44C27/006

  Metallic coatings · CPC title

• C23C14/5873

  Removal of material · CPC title

• G04B19/10

  Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial {(cases for special purposes, e.g. ring or button watches G04B37/12; indicating means with special effects G04B45/00)} · CPC title

• G04B19/12 Primary

  Selection of materials for dials or graduations {markings} · CPC title