Oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers and cosmetic compositions comprising it

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-11872303-B2
Application number	US-202217569955-A
Country	US
Kind code	B2
Filing date	Jan 6, 2022
Priority date	Jan 29, 2021
Publication date	Jan 16, 2024
Grant date	Jan 16, 2024

Abstract

An oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers obtained by extraction from powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers with supercritical CO 2 , and the process of obtaining such an extract. Also, cosmetic composition including such an oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers having in particular an antiaging effect for the skin, and method for preventing and/or treating changes to the skin due to aging or photoaging using such an extract.

First claim

The invention claimed is:

1. A process for preparation of a cosmetic oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers, comprising at least extracting from powder of dried Gardenia jasminoides flowers with supercritical CO 2 , at a temperature included between 40 and 80° C. and at a pressure included between 25 and 50 MPa, wherein the Gardenia jasminoides flowers are dried by being dehydrated either under the sun or under vacuum at a temperature of about 40° C.

2. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the extraction with supercritical CO 2 is done in the presence of an oil solvent selected from the group consisting of squalane, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, and vegetable oils.

3. The process according to claim 2 , wherein the oil solvent is added in a volume ratio of CO 2 to oil solvent included between 200:1 and 50:1.

4. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers is obtained by further milling of dried Gardenia jasminoides flowers.

5. The process according to claim 1 , wherein at the end of the step of extraction with supercritical CO 2 , the pressure may be lowered for the CO 2 to change to the gaseous state to a pressure less than or equal to 7.4 MPa.

6. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the process comprises at least the following steps:
i) drying Gardenia jasminoides flowers either under the sun or under vacuum at a temperature to obtain dried Gardenia jasminoides flowers; milling the dried Gardenia jasminoides flowers to obtain a powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers;
ii) extracting the powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers with supercritical CO 2 at a temperature included between 40 and 80° C. and at a pressure included between 25 and 50 MPa, over 30 minutes to 6 hours, in the presence of an oil solvent, with a ratio by weight of dried powdered flowers to oil solvent from 1:5 to 1:20;
iii) evaporating CO 2 by lowering the pressure to 7.4 MPa or less;
iv) optionally adding an alcohol flow in order to collect the mixture of powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers and solvent, and then evaporation of said alcohol to obtain an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers; and
v) clarifying the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers.

7. The process according to claim 6 , wherein the step v) of clarification is done by filtration on a membrane with a porosity below 1 μm.

8. A cosmetic oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers obtained by the process according to claim 1 .

9. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one cosmetic oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers according to claim 8 .

10. A method for treating or reducing the incidence of changes to a subject's skin due to aging or photoaging, comprising applying to the subject's skin the cosmetic oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers obtained by the process according to claim 1 or a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, said cosmetic oil extract according to claim 1 .

Assignees

• Chanel Parfums Beaute

Inventors

• Rilhac Vincent
• Gillet Maeva

Classifications

• A61K8/9789 Primary

  Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons] · CPC title

• A61K8/922

  of vegetable origin · CPC title

• A61K8/925

  of animal origin · CPC title

• A61Q19/08

  Anti-ageing preparations · CPC title

• A61K2800/805

  Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95 · CPC title