Stone setting method

Patent metadata

Field	Value
Publication number	US-11547187-B2
Application number	US-202016837090-A
Country	US
Kind code	B2
Filing date	Apr 1, 2020
Priority date	Jul 29, 2019
Publication date	Jan 10, 2023
Grant date	Jan 10, 2023

Abstract

A method for assembling a stone on a setting support, the stone being cut to exhibit a table, a crown, a girdle and a pavilion, including the steps of: providing a substrate coated with a pattern including an electrically conductive layer covered with a resin layer, the pattern having an inner contour delimiting a hole through the coated substrate and an outer contour corresponding to the outer contour of the desired setting support; removing the resin layer; after dissolution of the resin layer, positioning the stone in the through hole, the stone resting on the electrically conductive layer; and electrodepositing a metal layer on the electrically conductive layer to form the setting support, in order to make the stone integral with the metal layer.

First claim

The invention claimed is:

1. A method for assembling a stone on a setting support, the stone being cut to exhibit a table, a crown, a girdle and a pavilion, comprising the steps of:
providing a substrate coated with a pattern comprising an electrically conductive layer covered with a resin layer, the pattern having an inner contour delimiting a hole through the coated substrate and an outer contour corresponding to an outer contour of a desired setting support;
removing the resin layer;
after of removing the resin layer, positioning the stone in the hole, the stone resting on the electrically conductive layer; and
electrodepositing a metal layer on the electrically conductive layer to form the setting support, in order to make the stone integral with the metal layer.

2. The method according to claim I, wherein the provision of the coated substrate comprises the steps of:
coating the substrate, by physical vapour deposition, with the electrically conductive layer;
depositing a photosensitive resin layer on the electrically conductive layer; and
applying a photolithography process to the resin layer such that resin remaining after photolithography is delimited by the inner contour and the outer contour of the desired setting support.

3. The method according to claim 2 , wherein providing the coated substrate comprises removing, by wet etching, a portion of the electrically conductive layer not covered by the resin layer, so that a remaining portion of the electrically conductive layer is delimited by the inner contour and the outer contour of the desired setting support thereby creating the pattern comprising the electrically conductive layer covered with the resin layer.

4. The method according to claim 1 , wherein providing the coated substrate comprises drilling the hole, by laser ablation.

5. The method according to claim 1 , wherein removing the resin layer comprises chemical dissolution of the resin layer.

6. The method according to claim 1 , comprising securing, by a retention adhesive, of the stone positioned inside the hole.

7. The method according to claim 1 , comprising correcting an orientation of the stone positioned inside the hole.

8. The method according to claim 7 , comprising correcting the orientation of the stone positioned inside the hole, followed by securing, by a retention adhesive, of the stone positioned inside the hole.

9. The method according to claim 1 , comprising electrodepositing the metal layer to encompass the girdle and areas of the crown and of the pavilion contiguous to the girdle in order to make the stone integral with the metal layer, the metal layer thereby imprisoning the stone to form the setting support.

10. The method according to claim 1 , wherein the electrodeposited. metal layer is made of a material chosen from the group consisting of nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and alloys thereof.

11. The method according to claim 1 , wherein the substrate is made from a material chosen from the group consisting of silicon, ceramic, glass and quartz.

12. A method for setting a stone on an element of a timepiece or piece of jewellery comprising mounting the stone on the setting support by the method according to claim 1 and mounting the stone and the setting support on a jewel setting placed on the timepiece or jewellery element or directly on the timepiece or jewellery element.

Assignees

• Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd

Inventors

• Laforge Elias

Classifications

• A44C17/04 Primary

  Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools · CPC title

• B23P5/00

  Setting gems or the like on metal parts, e.g. diamonds on tools · CPC title

• C25D7/005

  Jewels; Clockworks; Coins · CPC title

• G04B19/12

  Selection of materials for dials or graduations {markings} · CPC title

• A44C27/00

  Making jewellery or other personal adornments · CPC title